How to: 4 Steps Columnaris Treatment Fish Bacterial Infecton

How to: 4 Steps Columnaris Treatment Fish Bacterial Infecton


What’s up guys? Devon here from American Aquarium. Thank you for turning in. This is an important topic, so don’t even
think about changing the channel. If this is something you think you’re struggling
with with your fish, stay tuned. We have in-depth information based on treating
100,0000s of fish. Studies, research, the experience, all packed
into this video for you guys for making a successful treatment that not like any other
information online. So, what is Columnaris? This is an important one when it comes to
the identification of the disease, because there’s something that looks very similar
to it. So, you have to identify it correctly to know
if this is Columnaris. Columnaris is dull sheen on the fish. Dull white sheen. If the white patch is fuzzy, it is not Columnaris. It’s actually Saprolegnia Fungus Mold, which
is not the same as Columnaris bacteria. It’s a mold, that needs to be treated like
a mold and Columnaris is a bacteria that needs to be treated like a bacteria and how they’re
contracted are two different ways. Where Saprolegnia is more from excess mulm
build up in the aquarium and Columnaris is stress related, which then weakens the immunity
and allowing the fish to contract the disease. Common stressors that allows the fish to contract
the Columnaris infection is bullying between aggressive fish, intense flow, intense lighting,
poor diet, and number is poor water quality. As in, poor electrolyte ions minerals in the
water. I’m not just talking about the regular water
changes saying that if you do your water changes you’re good to go. What’s been proven best to keep to keep the
immunity boosted best long term even when stressors are present, espically oxidative
stressor, acid build up stressors in the aquarium is having a constant supply of these electrolyte
ion mineral in the tank. And I say constant, because even if you do
regular water changes, we’ve done the studies, we’ve done the research, we’ve done the experiments,
long-term experience has shown that keeping a constant dose of these electrolyte GH minerals
is what proved to be the number one thing to help a fish not contract the disease. I mean, when we’re patients and we go to the
doctor and really sick, what’s the first thing a doctor gives that person, what do they give
us? The give us electrolyte IV right? In third world countries when there’s real
sick people, they don’t just start jumping in and giving them medication. No, they treat with electrolytes FIRST. Same with fish, we need this constant supply. So, if we don’t have this electrolyte ion
minerals present in the aquarium, really if a treatment is successful chances are the
fish is going to have issue again. I have a few other videos that go over this
topic of dosing constantly, that’s an important way electrolyte ion reducing minerals, check
the description below in the articles for much more information and I’ll say it…this
is science and it’s been scientifically proven that this is what is needing. Ok assuming that you don’t have any stressors
and these things are in check then you can consider a treatment. So here’s your four steps on how to treat
Columnaris. Number 1 and again I’m repeating it, because
it’s so important. Lower the stressors and improve water quality>
if you don’t know how to do this, please take a look at the resources below. Failure to do this step guys, is like giving
burn medication to a burn victim, while their still on fire! Number two, add additional sodium chloride
to the aquarium. This can be done to 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons. This is a therapeutic amount of salt to help
the treatment be more successful . There’s a full salt treatment that can be done where
you don’t consider other medications, which I’ll describe towards the end of the video. There’s been proven studies to show salt can
cure Columnaris. Number three, give the fish a medicated swab. Bring the fish out of the water, if you can,
calmly, try to give the fish a swab, first choose of Merbromin, second choice of Methylene
Blue, or third choice, not as preferred a dilated, a 50% diluted potassium permanganate
swab. Very important to make sure that potassium
permanganate does not go into the gills of the fish. If it does, you’re going to want to do a bath
immediately of third dose Prime. Another option of a swab, if you don’t have
Methylene Blue or potassium permanganate is 3% Hydrogen Peroxide. Follow the same guidelines, make sure not
to get into the gills. Part of this step three then after the swab
is taking the fish from the swab and putting it into a medicated bath. This step right here has been shown to be
what makes this treatment most successful. So, you want to stick with it. Bath are generally from 7 to 10 days, 1 to
2 times a day, for 30 minutes, after you do this regiment, then look at the fish’s health,
see if it’s improved, if not, you consider a different treatment. In this bath, you will have a double dose
of Methylene Blue or potassium permanganate. This is what’s on the back of the bottle for
the intake treatment at double dose in the bath. If you’re using Methylene Blue and not potassium
permanganate, potassium permanganate cannot be mixed with any other medication. Methylene Blue, if you choose to can be mixed
with other Sulfa medications to enhance the effectiveness for a more severe infection. Another effective drug to mix is with Mythylene
Blue is Maracyn Plus. Our actual number one choice to mix with Methylene
Blue bath is Spectrogram and if you don’t have Spectrogram, kanamycin wirh nitrofurazone
combination. You want to use both. Not just one or the other. There’s been a proven synergistic blend when
using these two medications together. Spectrogram has these two mixed together. Step 4, last step guys is using an in-tank
treatment. Best is to be in a hospital tank. In this in-tank treatment, you want to use
a broad spectrum antibiotic, like again the before mentioned Spectrogram, which is a kanamycin
nitrofurazone combination. Follow the instructions on how to preform
that complete in-tank treatment. There’s other in-tank treatment options and
other recommendations in the article below. Just in case you don’t have these on hand,
you might have something else. These are the four proven steps, where we’ve
had the best success treating Columnaris. Also a natural treatment to consider is using
Oregon Grape Root, as an addition to these other medications to enhance the effectiveness
for a more severe cases. This is a little more unknown science, but
there has been some good results. And finally, not part of the steps, but should
be considered in all treatments is following up with an AAP medicated wonder shell, which
has a broad spectrum mild antibiotic medication combination. This is going to be a slow release, medicated,
shell that also releases those very important before mentioned electrolyte ions minerals. And side note, after the treatment is successful
and ongoing with all your freshwater fish, you should be using an AAP wonder shell on
going to provide those ion minerals, super important to keep the fish’s immunity boosted
long-term for best long term health. Lastly, I’ll go over salt treatment method
that I explained earlier in the video. This is only if you have Sodium chloride on
hand and this is something that has been proven, because in the agriculture market, they can’t
just dump medication. You know the food we eat, they can’t just
dump medication in, because of strict regulation guidelines. It has been proven, that up to 2.54 teaspoons
per gallon is a very effect treatment and this has even been proven by university studies,
this has also been proven to be an effective treatment for more salt known sensitive fish
that gets anecdotally passed around on the internet that these fish can’t help sodium,
but the Alabama Agriculture Experimental from the Auburn University showed that even fish
like Catfish can handle these in times of needing needing the treatment. Then they are still known as more sensitive
fish, but if your fish is going to pass away from this disease, versus a long term effect
of what could happen from the sodium, saving the fish is usually the preferred choose. OK guys, I hope that information was helpful. This is what we’ve had best success with. I really appreciate you guys, I want you to
know that. I’m going to please ask that you like, subscribe,
share of course, and tune in next time. I’ll talk to you then, bye!

38 thoughts on “How to: 4 Steps Columnaris Treatment Fish Bacterial Infecton

  1. Excellent video! I would urge viewers to read the entire article to fully understand treatment and prevention of Columnaris.
    As well I would urge viewer to utilize AAP Spectrogram over just mixing Kanamycin Sulfate & Nitrofurazone since it is already blended for the perfect synergistic combination and is thus treated concurrently which is not possible when purchasing separately. This will result in a higher success rate as well as an often quicker success (assuming other steps are followed too).

  2. Thanks for the science-based information. I read the article first and then watched this video, and I still have a couple questions.

    1. My Kh and gh are about 120 each with a ph of 7.8. Is that enough to provide the electrolytes you were talking about?

    2. I think two of my kuhli loaches have columnaris. One has a fairly large, shiny white patch on his side and I noticed a second one with a much smaller patch yesterday. They are notoriously sensitive to medications. How should I treat them? They live in a 20 gallon long with a betta, otocinculus, assasin snail, and numerous pest snails that appear to be healthy. I've never seen the betta bully them. Three did get into my sump and two died. I didn't see an injury on the 3rd, but perhaps that was the stresser, and since they pile all up on each other maybe he passed it to the other one. I fixed that access. Tank temperature does fluctuate between 74 and 78. 120 gallons/hour pass through the filtration, and I have an additional diy air pump box filter that sits below the over flow. This is where the loaches hang out. Betta tends to spend most of his time on the opposite side of the tank where the flow is quieter, so I don't think he's bugging the loaches too much. I do have a 3 gallon that could be used as a hospital tank, and cycled media ready for it, but I'm afraid treat the loaches with medications because of everything I've read about their sensitivity to it. I also don't want any more of them to get sick, if indeed they are sick. It's a quandary.

    3. Five weeks ago I brought home a vey sick betta that I treated for fin rot with Seachem's kanaplex and for the potential onset of bloat with metroplex. I continue to change one gallon of water treated with Seachem's stress guard and prime three times per week. He is able to swim and eat again, and while he is acting like a normal, fiesty betta, his fins haven't healed. He had always had a white patch near his dorsal fin, just on one side. I thought it was just odd coloration, but do you think it could be columnaris? He lives alone in a 5 gallon aquarium that is kept at 80 to 82 degrees and with a filter that moves about 30 gallons of water per hour, but is baffled.

    Here is a link to photos in Google drive. Sorry i cann't get any of the loaches – they are too quick.
    https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1W-_WE3XsEyIWTewr0ri7vO1PjRtwRCQR

  3. I had a slow strain outbreak in my 200 gallon about a year ago that forced me to tear it down and treat in a 75. I treated them as described here for a month and the only loss was a 7 year old Silver Dollar that never showed signs of the bacteria but had renal failure from the kanamycin. After I was certain the infection was gone I rehomed all but 5 megalechis thoratica. I began restocking a month later, the new fish stayed in qt for a month then 5 were added to the 75 "that is running an aquanetics 30 watt UV" with the hoplos and 4 remained in a 44 gallon qt. Bang within days every fish in the 75 had columnaris again. I lost 3 red spot severums and 1 of the hoplos. They are now in 20-long qt tanks and the 75 was bleached. The fish have been in 1.10 salinity for 6 weeks I saw no improvement until I crossed over 1 tbsp/gallon. I have been medicating with spectrogram and grape root for 2 weeks at a time along with baths in PP followed by painting with H2O2. The 2 remaining Red Spots still show some reddening of the operculum suggesting that the gills are still infected but all external signs are gone. The hoplos still show milkyness. I have tried everything should I continue treatment or just put them down?

  4. Is it ok to do step 2 and 3 (swab and bath with methy blue) DURING step 4 (antibiotic in-tank treatment) ?

  5. Hi AAP ,do you thing the monodactylus is infected? Please help before it gets to others if it is.https://youtube.com/watch?v=sudeqQ2yIow

  6. Hey guys this was a little hard to follow as a beginner. Maybe you can show an example of the products and the bathing it could have been a little earlier. But thank you for the great research you all have done.

  7. My Blood Parrot just developed a white cotton like mucus in its nose hole. This happened to my KKP 9 months ago and it had to be put down. I am thinking its columnaris, both instances. Ive separated the BP, added aq salt and Bactonex (methelyne blue) and dropped the temp like instructed in this video. Hope this works. He may have gotten stressed with the addition of a new fish

  8. Doimg some research o. Here because im deal with this right now. I see a vid that said she Euthanize to the rest of her fish that survived the calaveras in feared that it would get her other fish sick. Because once they have it they always have it is that true. If i add new fish to a tank that had columnaris will the new fish get sick

  9. Is the salt at 1 tablespoon per gallon in tank as step 1 , used during the in tank spectrogram treatment aswell ?

  10. Hi, loved your video great information. I have a question on my betta fish, he is a king betta and he has lost his coloring he was a very vibrant bluish green color when I first got him and then he turned a very discolored pale blue. he also had very ripped and torn fins like i can literally see them split into sections. take his tail fin and i can see three seperate sections like someone took scissors and just cut a single line in his fins. and his other fins on the bottom of him are the same way as well as looking frayed. I am finding more stuff on fin and tail rot but i think it is way more than that. so i was wondering if you have any suggestions as to what it might be. i have him on a course of melafix by API right now. any information or rescources will be greatly appreciated. I have not found too much on a google search of anything near to my betta's symptoms. thanks ahead of time.

  11. Can you please made a video on how to diagnose and make medicated fish food for other internal infections . My fish is passing white in its faeces and white faeces on its own . Particularly after using the medicated wonder shell and after a Bath

  12. My betta fish has a single large protruding white spot on his side and I was wondering if you could confirm if this is columnaris. Also, I admit to not doing water changes on schedule and assuming I improve the water conditions of the tank, would this help fight off the disease or would I have to use the mentioned treatments.

  13. I've had 2 fish that probably died from columnaris in the last week, as they suddenly had breathing problems and in a couple of days their fins and mouth were shredded apart. Do i have to treat my whole tank? or just fish with symptoms?

  14. The treatment all in it's self sounds stressful as hell on the fish to move from tank to tank to cup to different water with chemicals and such. I have freshwater tropical fish. They have something going on. It's bacterial I think. My Platy's have lesions, I it only effects my sliver speckled that I have bred myself for their pattern. It's not common. My golds seem fine. Where they have the color black for scales they are popping out and falling off them. I have given the around of EM erythromycin, fruan-2, and triple sulfa. Yes they got breaks in between treatments. I also use Epson salt it's much better for freshwater fish. I did meth baths. Nothing my fish are still infected. I have even dose the food with metroplex and focus. Nothing!! Any suggestions?

  15. Wow, really informative.
    I just got some new fish and I'm afraid they might have columnaris and have a suspicion that my old tanks may have it too b/c I'll suddenly get random die offs for no apparent reason.
    Just bought some of those shells and will keep this video favorited in case I need to treat.

  16. What would you recommend for Cotton Wool disease? My Red Devil has it and I've been using Kordon Rid Ich plus which is supposed to get fungal diseases. I don't know if that's the best option or should I use KanaPlex and Furan 2?

  17. Thank you for this video! It helps to read the article and watch the video to learn. Regarding adding salt, the article states "If added to the main aquarium, I recommend building up to high level suggested by this study over a 2 day period AND done in a hospital tank ONLY AND NOT combined with medications as 2.5 teaspoons per gallon salt mixed with therapeutic levels of medications may be lethal to the fish too." To clarify, does this mean that wherever salt is added, I should NOT also add medication (I have spectrogram) to that same location?

  18. Kanamycin and nitrofurazone along with salt are the only 3 things with exception to water changes of course to completely cure or at least save your fishes lives!!! Columaris is prolific, deadly and in my opinion the worst disease a fishkeeper will ever have to deal with!!!!! I wouldn't wish it on my worst enemy!!!! Great video ๐Ÿ‘

  19. Hey I got a question I bought potassium permanganate because there was not BM but the guy from the aquarium told me green malaquita do something similar to BM so I don't know if I can use it, or is better to stay with the potassium permanganate !!

  20. When I swab with mthalyn blue am I dissolving the spectrogram with it then swabbing it all together ??? Also then do I mix methalyn blue and spectrogram together in the bath? Itโ€™s my first betta fish and I need all the proper direction I can get please help me !!!! Many thanks ๐Ÿ™

  21. Quick question does spectrogram go in only the methalyn bath. Or is it bath plus tank? Also just one for each ? Or half of it in each ? Idk please help me ๐Ÿ™๐Ÿ™๐Ÿ™๐Ÿ™ thank you

  22. I did five treatments of spectrogram this. My betta is improving but nothing drastic yet. How many more treatments should I do of spectrogram

  23. I've been dealing with what I believe to be columnaris for months now and has spread to many different fish. Its an infection of the mouth on every one of them. Red and white but not fuzzy. I hear Columnaris kills quickly but as I said this has been going on for months and I have not had a signal fish die from it. I have treated with many different meds some of which recommended here without any response. I'm at a loss. I'm trying a methylene blue bath next. Kenaplex and nitrofurazone together was not effective.

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