How to repair a dented, bent and/or damaged oil pan flange

How to repair a dented, bent and/or damaged oil pan flange


Hey this is a video by Pet Rock. So while
doing my transmission, replacing the transmission fluid and filters on my Durango, which you
can see in another video, I’ll link to it in the description. I managed to bend the
outer edges of my pan a little bit and in this video I’m going to try to repair it by
basically beating it back into shape. I haven’t done this before but I’ve read up a whole
bunch of in hopefully I can get this right and I don’t screw up the pan. If I do screw
up the pan then I’ll probably end up going to a junk yard and picking up one off of a
junker truck out there. So wish me luck. So the first thing you need to do before doing
anything is making sure that the bolt holes are smooth and flat. Often times after multiple
repeated oil changes by torquing down the bolts these, the bolt holes become high spots
quite often. So this is a good thing to do generally, a good thing to check just generally
when your changing the transmission fluid and you have the pan off just make sure that
they are smooth to help prevent oil leaks. Either way, so what you do is basically, you
get something that will fit around in here, in this spot right here so you can use it
as an anvil to pat down the holes. So what I’m using, I’m using a inner sleeve for one
of my wife’s control arm bushings that I removed in a previous video that happens to fit perfectly
in that space. So first you mount it in your vise like that. Get it in there tight. you
take the pan in an area that you want to flatten. I’ll use that one for right now. You don’t
need a big hammer, I’m using a relatively small hammer. I’m not sure on the weight of
this thing. Lets see if its written. Nope. Its not written on it. So either way, so just
put it on your thing you’re using as an anvil. You can use your, a socket or an old socket
or a nice quarter inch, sorry half inch extension or something along those lines. Anyway, so
it doesn’t take a lot of force. You just need to tap it, again because this is thin metal
so it will bend fairly easily. so you just want to tap it, tap it back in place. Like
that literally that much force. Let the hammer do the work. You don’t need to whack down
really hard on the man. You’ll damage it. So you just want to tap it. Make sure that
its smooth, that your level and just tap it like that and that’s it. Just do that all
the way around, all the way around the pan. Now the reason you want to do this before
starting in on bending the pan back is you need to basically, you need to use a level,
you need to use some kind of, something like a level like this, I have, this one is magnetic,
so you can basically see where the pan is bent and where it is not. If the bolt holes
are high spots that will give you a false, a false negative and you’ll have to, you’ll
have to, you’ll be bending in the wrong spot when you don’t need to so first thing is to
smooth out all the bolt holes. Ok, now that you’ve gotten them all flattened, the next
thing to do is to basically take the hardest hit parts, for example on this edge I’ve got
one that’s got a nice, a nice bevel to it, yeah I really messed up on this pan. The RTV,
the black RTV just did not want to come off and this was the only pry point, or actually
these two pots where the pry points for my transmission. So that’s why these got, this
part got damaged. Anyway, so luckily it is not that hard to repair. The first thing you
want to do is take out the big parts, that the big areas that are highly damaged. So
I usually take a rag so I don’t mar the surface any more or a pair of vise grips or in this
case a pair of channel locks and just bend it back into shape. Keep repeating that over
and over again getting it as close to straight as possible. You’re not going to get it perfect
doing it this way, this is just to get you in the general ball park. Little bits at a
time and you’ll be able to get, get it pretty darn close. Keep double checking where you’re
at, once you get it pretty well, pretty good just move on to the next one and then we’re
going to smooth this out in a minute. So one thing to help out, to help you out with this
is if you get a set of channel locks like this make sure they have a deep mouth, and
when your in my case it bent at this little corner right in here so you want to get the
channel locks as deep in as you can so to ensure that your just bending it at this corner
right here. rather then just bending up the whole thing. You want to keep this surface
as flat as you can at least that is the ultimate goal but if you bend it a little bit don’t
worry about it we will bang it out later. Ok next thing you do once you’ve got everything
in the general position where you’ve bent them up back into general shape again take
your time its going to basically be a bunch of trial and error. you want to make small,
small little adjustments to get it back in line otherwise your just going to mess it
all up and your just going to get lost and end up just having to throw out the pan. Anyway,
so once you’ve got this in the general location where you want it, the next thing you need
to do is you need to get a set of punches, something like these, that will basically
tap around the bolt holes getting the bolt holes flat. Once you’ve gotten those flat
then you need to get a smaller, as smaller punch that will fit in this groove right in
here on either side of this little hill. Its a channel on the other side, a valley on the
other side so anyway, you do not want to flatten out this hole center piece you want this little
bump is supposed to be there its supposed to basically be a reservoir for the RTV, again
this vehicle came with RTV from the factory it did not come with a gasket, anyway, so
you want to basically hit along this line in a quick and repeated fashion similar to
pneumatic hammer you see on those blacksmithing shows. It just basically hits it really hard,
well not really hard but hits it fast and repeatedly. And you just want to keep doing
that over and over and over again until you smooth this whole thing out. So you don’t
want to do this on a wooden bench though because the wood will actually take, will give so
the metal will actually deform and you’ll get little dimples in the metal and you don’t
want dimples. You want smooth so its better if you have a large plate or a large piece
of metal, not plate like dinner plate but a large plate of metal or if you have a smooth
cement floor like I do then you can use that as your backing. So the metal will just give
until it hits the smooth floor or smooth backing. So you want to take your small chisel or small
punch like this and you want to drag it across hitting it repeatedly and fast. Just do that
over and over again
all the way across. You’ll hear the metal, the sound the metal makes, the sound of the
banging change as you get, as it gets closer and it starts hitting the floor or your backing
I should say. Just keep doing that until its all a uniform sound and you’ll be pretty close
to smooth. You want to double check your work and make sure your not going too far or to
see how much further you have to go. So one way to do this is to set up a level similar
to this where you have a side that you know is good in my case it is the back side and
you compare it to the front. And then you just have a little back light and you look.
And on this side right here, this is one of the areas where I have already worked that
is pretty good if you notice both the edges are, you don’t see much, you don’t see any
daylight coming through except for at the trench. Then if you work it even further down
in an area where I do need to work the level doesn’t hit smoothly across the, the entire
flange so I have to work on this area to bend it down, bend it up a little more so yeah,
just keep checking your work and move slowly. If you start seeing little dimples similar
to those don’t worry too much just take a hammer or smooth punch and beat those back
down again of course thats going to bend the whole flange back this way so your going to
have to work it back and forth. One thing I did notice is I had this small punch, thing
punch that fit perfectly within this groove right here so I was able to use that, and
hit this flat spot to make this flange smooth and flat. Its a lot easier then it is with
a small circular tip like this. The corners obviously I had to do with this kind of a
punch and just work my way around as I described earlier and get it as good, as close as you
can. So its going to take a while. A lot of back and forth testing your work, making sure
that your going in the right direction for example you don’t want to be bent too far
in one direction and not the other and vise versa. Just keep checking the level as I described
and you should be able to get it pretty good. Ok, soI think I got it as close as I’m going
to get it, as smooth as I’m going to get it. If you look closely there is a little bit
of abrasion right here from where I had gouged it a little bit while trying to take the pan
off so what I’m going to do is take a pair, some emery cloth and I’m going to sand this
down a little bit to smooth it out. And then to get it basically roughly smooth and then
after that I’m going to use some more fine grain sand paper a couple different levels
to get it smooth all the way around. Now since I was also banging on my cement floor of my
garage some of this area, the surrounding area may have gotten scuffed up a little bit
so I’m going to touch those areas up as well. Ok I think I got it all shiny and smooth again.
So this is a lot better obviously then it was when I started. I’m quite happy with it.
Hopefully, with my fingers crossed, it won’t leak, one thing you want to do is because
there is some imperfection in this your never going to be able to get it perfectly flat
unless you have the perfect tools to do this you know where you can fit it in the little
grooves perfectly but what I would advise doing, if your not going to use, if your going
to try to use a gasket like I’m going to do, a rubber gasket, the gasket may not seal properly
against areas like this and like this where it has been marred up a little bit so what
I would advise doing is putting a thin film of RTV around the areas that are scuffed up
a little bit and then put your gasket on top of that. You don’t have to put RTV around
the entire pan because the gasket, the normal gasket will work perfectly fine on the areas
that weren’t scuffed up. Its just the areas where you’ve got some ripples that you want
to put the RTV. And that will help prevent, that will help fill up any gaps that may form,
that may be there between the gasket and the pan. You don’t need to use gasket, RTV on
the, between the gasket and the transmission unless you gouged up the transmission housing
and if you did that then you’ve got bigger problems. So one of the last things I did
before putting this back on the truck was after beating on this so much the paint that
was on here had chipped up and flaked off and I’m lucky enough not to live in an area
that has a big rust problem but I used to so I still worry about it if you live in an
area like the rust belt that has rust issues or places where they use a lot of salt on
the roads you’ll probably want to be concerned with this. I took some emery cloth and folded
it in half similar to like this and just rubbed it in, in the groove like that to dislodge
any loose paint and to also prep the surface for me to add additional paint. So I just
picked up a can of gloss black spray paint from my local auto parts store and gave it
a few coats. This is coat number two out of the three that I’m going to give it total.
Its almost dry. Or tacky I should say for me to add the third coat. Anyway, so once
this is dried up all the way I’ll bolt it back up to the car. Now that I’ve fixed the
pan as well as I think I can, hopefully it won’t leak, I’m going to replace, re-seat
I should say the drain plug that I had installed a few years back. I’ll be doing that under
a separate video some people have been asking about it. Its actually quite simple. Well
I hope this video was helpful to you if you have any questions or comments please leave
them in the comments section I’ll be happy to answer any questions you may have and now
granted I am not an expert on metal shaping so there may be better ways of doing this.
There are probably a hundred different ways of doing this but this is the way I did it.
And I’ll update this video, probably just in the description or maybe edit the video
itself if YouTube will let me to show the results to see if this actually leaked or
not. Hopefully it won’t. So hopefully this helped somebody out obviously this doesn’t
only apply to transmission pans. It applies to pretty much any oil pan where you have
to, where it got bent in some way shape or form. So anyway, hopefully you liked this
video, hopefully it helped you out don’t forget to subscribe and leave comments and like it
and all that other stuff. Thanks…

9 thoughts on “How to repair a dented, bent and/or damaged oil pan flange

  1. Hey thanks for the heads up on some different approaches to deal with an imperfect   
    flange. Be cool, freezerburn

  2. Reminds me of my first oil change (1972). I put the jack under the oil pan, needless to say when I started the car the oil dipper banged against the bottom of the pan. A mechanic suggested that I pull the lead off the coil (so the car wouldn’t start and have someone crank the engine while I wiggled a long screwdriver through the drain hole. The pan still had a dent, but the noise was gone. Good Times… LOL

  3. I had a pan that was bent but it was not enough to be easily noticeable. That thing leaked and I had to put a catch pan under to catch the fluid and keep it off my floor. What did get on the floor, I used some oil dry on it just as soon as I found the pan leaking. The result was it didn't even leave a mark on the floor. It is a concrete floor and has a fairly smooth finish. In the winter I nearly fell down on my @$$ because if it. When I sweep in there, I like to use the leaf blower because it gets dust that a broom leaves behind. You would think the floor is swept until you get the blower out and you can see ALL the dirt that you didn't see initially. It makes it nice and clean so that you can sit down to work on a car without fear of a dirt print on your clothes.

  4. lol…get on fb yard sale pages. Sell some junk or do a job for someone. Buy a new pan. Why waste your entire day fixing a warped pan that MAY or MAY not work after all is said and done?

  5. My mother's 2001 FIAT Palio EL 1.2mpi leaking oil sump brought me here.I bent,tapped and beat it and couldn't get the daylight out so decided to opt for a new replacement one instead.Thanks.

  6. Next time you try to take off a glued on oil pan use a putty knife and drive it in and around the entire edge and it will cut through the silicone with no damage to case or pan,,just don't drive it in too far

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