Week 10: What you may not have known about live rock | 52 Weeks of Reefing

Week 10: What you may not have known about live rock | 52 Weeks of Reefing

Today on BRS it’s everything you ever wanted
to know about live rock. Hey guys my name is Ryan, welcome to another
week of the BRS 160 where every week we do our best to help you guys, members of the
reefing community enjoy your tanks and find new ways to explore the hobby. We do that
by following the set up and progression of this one hundred and sixty gallon reef tank. This week we are going to explore everything
related to live rock starting with why we use it, benefits of dry verses wet, discusses
surface area and porosity, discuss proper curing and finish with curing the rock for
the BRS 160 In reef aquariums we use live rock for a few
main purposes Atheistic appeal, habitat for the fish and corals as well probably the most
important element with filtering the tank. Every time I explain the set up a reef tank
to someone new the first thing they ask is where is the filter? Filter is one of those terms that has a lot
of meanings in the reef tank, by definition filtering really means removing something
and there is some equipment on a tank like filter socks and protein skimmers that are
capable of removing waste from the tank as well as filter medias like carbon, GFO and
Zeovit which are capable of filtering the water and capturing various contaminates. In relation to live rock filtering the tank
we are really talking about using the rock and the bacteria it hosts the rocks surface
to not necessarily remove elements from the tank but instead process or convert broken
down food and fish waste in the form of very toxic ammonia into much safer nitrite and
nitrate. It’s also possible in the right conditions
for the rock and its host bacteria to perform closer to true filter by further converting
the nitrate into nitrogen gas which bubbles out of the tank and effectively removes the
ammonia and its processed components from the tank for good However that’s rarely one hundred percent
effective and isn’t as well understood as the other processes but the general concept
is water travels through the center of the rock in areas which have little oxygen where
a different bacterium populates and is capable of this last step. How much rock and type
of rock best suited for this is not something that has been generally understood or agreed
upon as of yet. This entire process of filtering the toxic
ammonia is commonly referred to as the nitrogen cycle. We are going to cover this and how
to cycle a new tank properly in depth in just a few weeks. For this episode it is just important
to know that the love rock more or less just serves as surface area for the bacteria to
populate on and filter your tank for you. There are two fundamental types of live rock
with wet and dry. Wet rock comes from the ocean and has life on it including bacteria,
algae, possible a coral or two makes it as well as crabs or other critters on really
fresh live rock. Biggest advantage to wet rock is it’s the
quickest method to get a tank up and running and look established. The surface of live
rock tends to have a lot of coralline and an established biofilm which makes it more
difficult for algae common with new tanks to take hold in the tank. It just looks nice
day one. If getting the tank up as fast as possible is a priority wet rock is your best
option There are three major categories within wet
live rock with boat rock, air rock and aqua cultured rock. Boat rock is packed wet in
a box, often with some wet newspaper and shipped from countries on the other side of the world
like Fiji on a boat. Whole process from collection to distribution to retail stores and delivery
to you is often six to eight weeks. For this reason they have to scrub most of the life
off before packing or it will rot in transit. Boat rock is live in the general sense of
the word but because it has been out of the ocean for so long I wouldn’t expect to see
anything special on it other than some coralline. Strange component is a lot of online vendors
will have you overnight it from there which unless the weather is extreme that doesn’t
make a ton of sense and kind of seems like a waste of money. Air rock is rock that was shipped direct from
places like Fiji via plane, stops in LA where it is routed to the distributors and then
often directly to customers overnight. This means the rock has only been out of the water
for a few days and they leave a lot more life on it with tons of Coralline algae in various
colors and possible hitchhiker corals and critters. When someone is thinking about live
rock its air rock they have in mind. So how do you tell the difference between
boat rock and air rock? In person it is easy because Air rock looks incredible. Ordering
online it can be a lot harder to identify but one sure sign of boat rock or old air
rock is a low price of less than five bucks a pound. It isn’t cheap to fly fifty pound
boxes of rock from Fiji half way around the planet and the reason a vast majority of the
live rock in the industry is shipped on container ships. One other option is aqua cultured rock which
is various types of rock dumped in the ocean where it is allowed to soak, often for years
before it is covered in all kinds of life and shipped to you. The rock is almost always
a calcium carbonate rock like limestone or some form of manmade rock. This means there is very little impact on
the ocean and environment. There is a lot of rock in the world’s oceans but we are
not going to be able to keep pulling rock it out forever so responsible sustainable
solutions like this are pretty attractive. You can get it in both boat and air deliveries
and it pretty much indistinguishable from your typical Fiji premium. You can also get aquacultured rock from Florida
which is primarily limestone cultured in the Florida Keys. Because it’s local many of
the providers actually ship it to you in bags of water via airport to airport which really
provides an unprecedented amount of life on the rock. As someone who has purchased this type of
rock in the past I would like to mention this type of rock comes with a lot of filter feeding
organisms which look cool when you get them but most are destined to die without some
pretty advanced feeding techniques so ninety percent of the time it is no different than
typical live rock in a six plus months and might but be worth the price premium. Because it is shipped in bags of water and
so fresh you are going to find a lot more pest organisms like gorilla crabs, mantis
shrimp, isopods, bristle worms and funky algaes. This is where dry live rock comes in. This
is either just live rock from the ocean that has been allowed to dry out, limestone rock
or dry man made rock. While wet live rock is the most popular with newer reefers who
are often in a hurry to get their tanks up dry rock is more popular with seasoned reefers
who want to eliminate some mistakes of the past as well constantly looking for ways to
save a few bucks in this fairly expensive hobby. Thing about wet live rock is it comes with
not only desirable live elements but often impossible to remove pests as well. Most common
are funky algaes, aiptasia, fire worms, red bugs, parasitic snails, flatworms, isopods
and flukes. Many of these nasty organisms cause reefers a lot of headaches hurt or kill
livestock and very commonly result in a complete tank tear down. Once you go through the hassle of starting
your tank all over you are going to do whatever you can to avoid putting these things back
into your tank again and why dry rock is so popular with seasoned reefers. Basically everything
on dry rock can be considered safe and some curing processes can absolutely assure that. This means you are starting clean and the
only pests that go into your tank are those to put in there yourself, most commonly on
the base of corals added to the tank. It is unlikely you will completely avoid ever introducing
any pest to the tank but starting with dry rock will absolutely limit them quite a bit. Dry rock is also lower cost by the pound,
doesn’t have all that water weight and in most cases ships completely free which in
the end can easily make it cost half as much. This is particularly true with the pukani
which is very light. To give you an idea of value we put forty
pounds of wet Fiji in this tank and this is forty pounds of pukani. It’s pretty obvious
you only need about half as much rock to fill the same space which makes it a lot more affordable
and pretty compelling. Dry rock is commonly available in a few different
types with pukani, Fiji, shelf, branch, reef saver and new Walt smith’s reef rock two
point one. Pukani is my personal favorite because of its unique structure and its super
light so even though it costs a few bucks more it is likely the lowest cost option out
there. Pukani is also by far the easiest to manipulate with tools to create a cool structure.
Something we will cover in detail in next week’s Aquascaping video. Reef Saver is a dry calcium carbonate based
limestone rock mind from the ground in Florida in areas with low PH aquifers which tunnel
these cool pore structures into the rock. One of the obvious advantages here is the
sustainability and lack of impact on the oceans reefs. The second is the ease of aquascaping
the edges of this rock fit together seamlessly. Fiji is just a staple in reefing and historically
the most popular rock used in aquariums. The Tonga shelf and branch are more specialty
rocks used to create some unique looks that meet specific desires and honestly pretty
hard to work with. A newer entry to the market is the reef rock
two point one from Walt smith which is a completely sustainable man made rock. The difference
between this and reef saver is the rock comes in a purple color which immediately gives
the perception of an established reef once it is underwater. The darker coating is smoother
and seems to be much less likely to grow algae common with new tanks. I was pretty hesitant with this rock at first
but it has come a long way and I think this just might be a big component of future of
reefing because it really combines the benefits of dry rock and wet rock. It comes pest free
so you know you are starting clean, the surface seems to be really algae resistant and most
of us here at BRS were really surprised how sharp it looks once it is in the tank and
under reef lighting. One of the things people discuss a lot when
they talk rock is available surface area and porosity. Because these basically represent
the amount of area or habitat the beneficial bacteria have to populate your tank and quickly
and efficiently process the ammonia into safer elements. While surface area and porosity are often
mistakenly used interchangeably they typically represent very different things. Most of the
time when people reference porosity with live rock they are discussing the visual hole network
in the rock for instance visually a piece of pukani or reef saver is much more porous
than a piece of Fiji. This visual porosity does play a role in total
surface area, for instance a round ping pong ball has about seven square inches of surface
area. This bio ball which is about the same size was designed to increase surface area
and has around twenty three square inches of surface area. This single ball of marine
pure which has all these tiny holes is visually more porous than both of these has two hundred
and forty square feet of surface area captured in this small ball. So to some degree it is
possible to make a visual assessment on the available surface area. However surface area has a more impactful
component that happens at the microscopic level. Surface area measures the total available
surface and more difficult to understand. For instance this tablespoon of activated
carbon might not look like it has much surface area and visually isn’t a drastically different
size than the balls we just referenced but at the microscopic level it has a vast internal
pore network which equals the same total area as an entire football field. That means this
table spoon of carbon has over a hundred and seventy thousand feet of total available surface
area. Hard to imagine. To help shed some light on this in relation
to reefing and the various rocks we sent out one hundred gram samples of each rock and
a sample of that marine pure bio media to a lab to perform multipoint BET surface area
testing. Fiji and marine pure were clear winners in
this regard with one point one four and one point zero six square meters of surface area
per gram. Reef Saver and pukani and were virtually tied
at zero point five one five and zero point five one two and Tonga came in at a pretty
dismal zero point one zero square meters of surface are per gram. This means the rock
you select can have a big impact on the total available surface area for the bacteria to
populate and filter your tank. To add one more layer to this, the surface
area testing tests the surface of crushed up rock samples we tested but doesn’t test
the availability of the internal pore network meaning how far and how easily can the water
penetrate the rock which can greatly increase the available surface area. One of the ways to get a general ideal of
how far and how easily water can penetrate the rock and be absorbed by the rocks internal
pore network is just to weigh it dry wet to see how much water it soaked up. We soaked
these samples overnight. The marine pure was a clear winner and was
able to absorb twenty four hundred grams of water. The pukani three hundred and eighty,
Fiji two hundred and ten, Tonga 90 and reef saver just sixty. So while the crushed samples of pukani and
reef saver had about the same surface area the actual rock is able to absorb over six
times the volume of water which is a pretty good indicator pukani is going to have significantly
more surface area and water can penetrate and travel through the rock easier which could
possible make it a better option for those of you looking to use the rock to convert
nitrate into nitrogen gas and complete the ideal nitrogen cycle The real winner in this regard was the marine
pure bio media. Even though it just looks like a large block it is incredible porous
both visually as well as tested by the lab and it was able to absorb forty times as much
water. To help demonstrate the availability of this materials available pore network we
glued a plumbing fitting on the tip and ran some tap water through it. You can see the
water just flows freely through the entire brick. Beatify of this is you can really pick any
rock you want, including those minimalist aquascapes with very little rock in the tank
itself and throw some of this marine pure or even some rock like pukani or Fiji in the
sump and know your tank has ample habitat for the beneficial bacteria in the tank. Once you have selected your rock you will
need to cure it. Curing the rock is often confused with cycling the tank because they
share some similarities and in some cases can be done at the same time, curing is the
process of getting the rock ready for the tank and it is very different for wet and
dry rock. With wet rock there will always be some die
off from the organisms that didn’t handle the transport well. Curing wet rock starts
with giving each piece a quick rinse in a bucket of saltwater to rinse off anything
dead, loose, general muck or algaes. If the rock has very obvious decay or large
patches of algae you are likely going to want to take a brush to it and scrub it off. These
Oxo brushes work well for this type of thing. After that it is really putting the rock in
heated saltwater and allowing ample time for whatever is going to die to do so before you
start adding livestock to the tank. You can do this in the tank itself or in containers
like these brute trashcans. Either way you will want to completely drain the tank and
replace with new saltwater once the cure is done. The big question is how long and do you want
to put light on the rock during the cure. Without light some corals and coralline algae
will die however the process of curing the rock creates a lot of nutrients in the water
which will promote algae in the tank and get your tank off to a bad start. I’d say this, if you paid extra for air
rock or other really nice stuff you really probably want to put some amount of light
on the tank during this time but I would try and keep it to shorter periods and lower intensity.
It is hard to say how much die off you will have but I’d say this process can take as
little a couple weeks or over a month. Watching nutrient levels like ammonia and nitrate will
be the best bet. Once they stop rising it is likely things have stopped dying. I you got boat rock and there really isn’t
a whole lot of life on it to begin with other than small patches of coralline I think id
personally cure it without light in these brute bins to avoid any algae growth and monitor
nutrients the same way. Once the cure is over discard the water and start the tank with
fresh saltwater. Many of the old pros in the hobby will use
this method and cure or soak the rock for three to six months before using it in the
tank. That’s certainly not required to have a successful reef tank but it will absolutely
help get all the organics off the surface of the rock as well as likely allow a vast
majority of pest hitch hikers and algae to die off. This still isn’t one hundred percent
effective and preventing pests but it will reduce them for sure. With dry rock it is very different The Fiji,
pukani and Tonga are all out of the ocean and dried out which means they have dried
up organisms on them which will need to break down during the curing process. This is particularly
true with the pukani which will often have a lot of sponges or other organisms in it. While these things break down, just like any
other type or organics in the tank like fish food or waste it will add nutrients to the
water like ammonia and the resulting nitrate as well as things like phosphate and yellowing
color pigments. This is sometimes confused with the rock leaching nutrients into the
water during the cure but more accurately it is just these organics breaking down that
are on the surface of the rock. Since this rock doesn’t need light I am
going to do the cure in a dark container like the brute trash cans to prevent algae growth.
It will help speed the process up if you add some good flow in the container and heat the
water. How long this takes is again really variable
from weeks to over a month but again the best way to identify when the cure is done for
sure is to monitor nutrients like ammonia and nitrate. Once they stop rising and stabilize
you can consider the rock cured. Some reefers will take this a step future
and do bleach or acid cure. The bleach will help oxidize or destroy organic matter like
algae and sponges and the acid will mostly dissolve the exposed layer of the rock and
loosen some of the organics like algae so you don’t have to wait for them to break
down. There are some obvious safety issues with
playing around with acid and bleach and the main benefit is really shaving some time off
the cure. Even after this process you are going to want to continue the dry rock cure
for a couple weeks minimum in some heated salt water to allow the rock to form a solid
biofilm which will help prevent algae from taking hold. With reef saver and Walt smiths new reef rock
two point one. We really don’t need to be as concerned about the organic end of the
cure because reef saver is mind rock and the reef rock is manmade so there should be little
to no organics on either but I still absolutely recommend soaking it in heated saltwater to
get any dirt or other contaminants off. This also gives the rock time to form that
important biofilm on the surface of the rock to help fight against algae growth. This is
particularly important with the reef saver which has a bright white rough surface algae
seems to like in brand new tanks. The reef rock two point one however has a
dark purple surface with is really smooth. Algae has a much harder time taking hold and
spreading on this surface but I would still soak or cure it for a few weeks before use. I’d also like to note that a lot of these
curing processes can create quiet and odor and really stink as the organics die off.
A bag of basically any type of carbon should solve that completely. So what did we select for the BRS one sixty.
I have had a couple hundred pounds of pukani curing and ready to go for months and this
really is my favorite rock for a whole variety of reasons including looks, density, porosity,
ease of some really cool aquascaping techniques and it’s pest free but this time I think
it is time we tried something different and we are going to go with the reef rock two
point one. I think this rock really has a future in our
industry, I like the lack of organics, the sustainability of the product, low to no impact
on the oceans and I think it is going to be the quickest way to get an attractive healthy
tank up and running. This will also give all of you a solid change to see what it looks
like in and established tank. Since it is new and we don’t know a lot
about the surface area properties of this rock I am also going to add some marine pure
to the sump by cutting the one inch slabs to fit the entire bottom of the filtration
area of the sump. And adding blocks to the fuge area. I chose the slabs over balls because
they are easy to remove and clean when needed. I am going to start the cure today which is
just soaking it in heated saltwater with a couple of powerheads. Next week we will do
our aquascape in the tank, add the sand the following week and I will do a one hundred
percent change before we start cycling this tank. This is ample time to create that biofilm
and get anything on the surface of the rock off. Next week we are going show you all kinds
of aquascaping tips, you seriously don’t want to miss it so hit that subscribe button. If
you are interested in learning more about any of the products we talked about in today’s
video checkout this link for descriptions and user reviews. See you next week with episode
eleven of the BRS 160 aquascaping!

100 thoughts on “Week 10: What you may not have known about live rock | 52 Weeks of Reefing

  1. Heh. I live in Australia and have never heard of boat rock before. Living 2 hours flight from Cairns we get everything fresh by air.

  2. in regards to curing..

    so if I buy like 50 lbs of pukani, I will have to cure it for at least a month before adding it to my tank?

  3. Let's say that instead of dry or wet rock, we want to instead use big pieces of completely dead Cat's Paw or Brown Stem coral for our aqua-scaping. Is it then also necessary to cure these items before adding them to the tank? And would the process be the same as the dry rock?

  4. Okay, so I have got a question for you brs geniuses! I bought the 10 kg of the project reef rock 2.1 and one 1"x 8" x 8" bio media plate as well as 30 lbs of special grade live sand from brs. In your opinion will this be enough filter media for a 40 breeder stocked? I would like to avoid a hob skimmer and I am currently using carbon/gfo. Side note, I put the media plate underneath my rock structure which the packaging indicates as an appropriate placement method.

    I wouldn't hold you responsible for any response, but would greatly appreciate your professional opinion.

  5. I am a complete newbie, in fact, don't even have a tank yet! But after doing some research I have decided to do a fowlr tank. Would watching this series still be beneficial??

  6. That purple rock is horrible. Its like a brick in your tank, non porous, collects algae and not healthy. I want to shut down my tank. I'm so frustrated. 6month now and my tank looks lifeless, I've been seeing word worm like creatures which I had to remove. I will buy some of that Punkah and rebuild my tank.

  7. Hey guys,

    Anyone know where I can get this in the uk?

    Loving the vids. Keep it up and follow for a build of my Red Sea E-Series 170

  8. I want a salt water tank. Never had one, I want a 20-40 gallon tank. don't want a bio cube. Can anyone help? I was looking at bfs 2o kit tank but… it's out of stock and I want live rock.

  9. Hey Ryan, hows the porous structure and surface area like of that real rock? Is the biological filtration the real rock could give in anyway equate to pukani? Starting up a 40G breeder, with a 20G sump. Deciding on what rock best suits with biological filtration as priority. Cheers.

  10. Coralline is taking over my live rock ..even the hermits I placed a few weeks ago have coralline on their shells. Any solutions?

  11. does anybody know if the purple rock is safe in freshwater? … I love it's appeal but most fish stores don't carry them …

  12. ok so i got this live rock at my lfs and it has epoxy on it to make it look like its covered in purple and pink coralline algae just wanted to know what you thought about it…it was in saltwater when I got it it comes from Florida tryed to look it up on the internet im not finding very much about it I have about 30 pounds of it right now in my 40-gallon breeder very new to the saltwater have a lot of fresh water tank setup so I would like to know if you could give me any insight on this epoxy covered live rock

  13. Just got my Walt Smith Reef Rock 2.1 in the mail today and I am curing it right now. I haven't tested the water yet because it's been in for only about an hour but I am not expecting to see any Ammonia, Nitrites, or Nitrates because it's man made right?

    Is it more of a PH level that I am looking for?

    Did you guys cure it or just rinse and place in tank?

  14. You know, a lot of people expected maybe Mark "Cutback" Davis or Bob "Jungle Death" Gerrard would take the honors this year.

  15. @bulkreefsupplycom so what is the best way to treat a live rock from pests or worms if you suspect them existing in a new live rock? #bulkreefsupplycom Thanks

  16. What temperature do you typically cure the rock at? Sorry if I missed it in the video but didnt see it. Looking to cure some dry live rock.

  17. if you have too high salinity rating, like 1.38, for a week then I have changed it, will all the good bacteria die?

  18. wow…thanks for the video(s)…I am so happy I ran across your videos as I am a beginner and I find your videos so educational and informative.

  19. Thanks for the video. Getting my 125 gal tank going and looking for more rock to put in it. What is the difference between Pukani and key Largo/Marcorocks dry rock? and what is the difference between Reefrock 2.1 and Caribsea?

  20. Can you add large pieces of dry rock for your aquascape to an already established tank or do you have to add all your rock at the beginning? Thanks for the help.

  21. When ever I buy live rock I ask to examine it piece by piece, I smell it to see if. It's fresh or rotten, handle it to see if I can see recent flat worm holes.

  22. I got the BRS reef saver dry rock for my 40gallon tank last month and fully cycled it . when I used the turkey Baster blow on it , there were a lot of white powder coming off from the rock . My parameter all good It's not the dust or sand, it's the dry rock dissolving the powder. I would like to return the dry rock but I will pay a lot for the shipping . Is it possible get free return

  23. Can you make a video about cycling a tank with ATM colony or Fluval beneficial bacteria and if it works or not. I and really confused if it even works.

  24. As someone who will soon make the switch from a 125G freshwater African Cichlid tank with sump to saltwater reef, this is by far the best channel content anywhere…but you knew that already! I guess with a RR tank and sump, that is a good jump start.

  25. I went on holiday to Barbados and took a piece of dried live rock from the beach, I put it in my tank and bam ! It came to life. In days, it almost instantly tuned purple and coraline spread across to other rocks. I had no pests and I was amazed by the amount of positive life growing on the rock.

  26. +BulkReefSupplyCom, starting a new tank with either type, wet or dry, rock are well described, A+, thank you. With tons of debate on forums, "What is the proper way to add new rock to an old(established) system?" more specific, Dry rock.. pls and ty

  27. After several month do you stll enjoy the rock? Does it get enought sealife in it for natural filtration? Would you recommend its use for small all in one tank?

  28. Im trying to get pukani dry live rock however I seen on the website that you don't ship to Canada, so do you know any site that do ship to canada, that are reliable and u would recommend? Thanks

  29. 5:00 If I wanted to keep them alive what type of feeding would I need to do? Phyto and copepods or more complicated stuff? I want to set up a 120gallon just to keep live rock like that for it to eventually become a seahorse tank. Where can I find out about feeding these filter feeders? I have looked into DyMiCo filters which replace skimmers and allow much more plankton to survive because he skimmer doesn't remove them. I would also add a remote deep sandbed for worms and eggs.

  30. So I have approximately 35 to 40 lbs of live rock in my 55 gal tank. There are these dead looking tubes all over each piece. It's not a huge eye sore or anything. I was curious whether or not I should remove each piece, dry it, scrub all that stuff off, then place it back? Some of the tubes appear to have some kind of little plant coming out of it. Thanks

  31. Ah BRS, I had my heart set on Pukani (you guys make it sound too good!). I spent weeks scouring the web for international shipping options to Asia (the cheapest was $15/lb for rocks + shipping). Almost paid $1,500 for 100lbs, but decided to be patient. In the end, it paid off as I went directly to the source and worked out a solution to get 132lbs shipped at less than $6/lb. Can't wait for it to arrive!

  32. My local fish store has several big bins of live rock with water, heater, and filter. Can I add this to the tank immediately?

  33. Hi guys, I'm starting a 422 litre set up soon (332l display, 90l sump)…how much pukani and how much reef saver is recommended for this size set up? thanks!

  34. New reefer here.
    I just bought some Fiji rocks that where pulled from a locals old tank about 6months ago.
    I am not planing on starting a tank for probably another 6-8 months is it smart to cure my rocks For a few months then dry them out again? Or would I have to cure the rocks again when it's time to start my tank cycle.

  35. Fantastic info here. I bought some cured live rock from my LFS straight from their show tank and set up a 10g also using live sand. Do i still have to go through the cycle or the rock and live sand have enough bb to support a few livestock?

  36. Ryan, I live in NYC. Do you think it's possible to get rid of pests that a rock could
    carry on by placing it for a few days outdoors in the cold during winter time??

  37. Is there a way to do this without curing the rock
    Like if you got it directly from the store and they pre cured it would that be ok?

  38. I've read about people 'curing' live rock to kill off unwanted pests. But isn't that the same as buying base rock to begin with?

  39. Just got some ReefRock 2.1 and about to cure it .. grabbing some MarinePure balls too does it need to cure with the MarinePure with the ReefRock? or do I add it in the tank cycle?

  40. I dont like live or dead rock!! havent seen any i like! so after thinking hard and long, i have some huge lava rocks in my flower bed. Bust some off and good to go!! only took about a week for it to sink…Lol, lots oh holes!! and looks so good with the black rock and purple on it!!!

  41. great flick as usual. ??? does the new purple already rock from Carib Sea and others still get covered with real coralline over time? thanks

  42. I want a saltwater tank that doesn't destroy ecosystems, so I'm going to assume anything with a Fiji label is a no go.

  43. My rock is starting to have shinny red spots you can notice it allot more under the blue light specially on my new white live rock can’t wait for it to spread more

  44. I wanted to thank all you guys at BRS for helping me out with all the in depth information that I needed for setting up my reef tank, keep up the great videos cheers!

  45. When it comes to adding weight per gallon of the tank… is that because in the old days when aquarists were planning their tank the only option available was live rock? Meaning the weight meant overall surface? When you highlight using live rock vs Pukani are you essentially saying that it is more the surface area not the weight that is important? My simple mind says it is more about the surface area vs the weight of the rock.

  46. I am taking so many notes on this video, you are killing it with how much info you are providing with this one! Man, I can't keep up! thanks!!! I can't wait to start my build, wife… she can wait… lol

  47. I live in Florida, so it seems logical to want the life-dense Florida rock. I live about four hours from the Keys so I would think I could pick up the rock in my car and send it right to my tank with minimal die-off. The idea of having something to watch in my tank during the lengthly curing phase make me really like the idea of rock with critters. Is there any way to deal with undesirable creatures like the giant worms mentioned in many videos while minimizing die off of desirable species?

  48. Question, I have a fully cycled tank with fish in it but I do not like the rock I have in it. Am I able to possibly slowly change each rock out or do I need to completely start over and cycle a new tank?

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *