Week 8: Tank temperature. Finding a way to trust your heater | 52 Weeks of Reefing

Week 8: Tank temperature. Finding a way to trust your heater | 52 Weeks of Reefing

Today on the BRS 160 we are going heat this
tank with a focus on stability. Hey guys my name is Ryan, welcome to another
week of the BRS 160 where every week we do our best to help you guys, members of the
reefing community enjoy your tanks and find new ways to explore the hobby. We do that
by following the set up and progression of this 160 gallon reef tank. This week we are going to talk about temperature
control. We will cover the different types of heaters, explain proper placement and demo
a few different heaters accuracy and variation. We’ll also cover the temperature controllers,
importance of calibration, chillers, fans and finish with our installation for the BRS
160. There is a fairly big range that a reef aquarium
can survive in, commonly anywhere from 76 to 83 degrees. Biggest advantage to running
higher temperatures is increased metabolic rates which can increase coral growth and
something most of us find desirable. There are however several disadvantages to
higher temps with lower dissolved oxygen, the in-creased metabolic rate in fish means
more waste, increased oxygen consumption, pest organ-isms grow faster and the closer
you run to the edge of what is tolerable the faster things go wrong. During a power outage or equipment failure
it is much easier and faster to experience a temperature related disaster at seventy
six or eighty three degrees. This is why most of us shoot for seventy eight to eighty. As to an exact number you can find tons of
polls around that show a pretty even distribution be-tween seventy eight, seventy nine and eighty.
I’d say most of those outside of this range are either advanced reefers with specific
goals or those who don’t have the equipment to maintain a stable temp in the desired range. One quick word on temperature stability. Basically
any seasoned reefer who has one of those epic tanks full of really impressive healthy corals
and intense coloration will tell you the biggest difference between their tank and the rest
is the stability of perimeters like calcium alkalinity , salinity, nutrients, lighting
and of course temperature. This really shouldn’t come as a surprise
because almost every living organism thrives in a stable environment where it doesn’t have
to constantly spend energy adjusting to changes in the environment or lack of elements necessary
for biological function. While it is absolutely possible to maintain a healthy reef tank with
unstable perimeters it’s the tanks that achieve stability that will most frequently
see the most growth and best coloration. Pretty much all of us will need a heater to
maintain a stable temperature in the tank. Even in warm states you probably frequently
use an air conditioner to cool your home and even if you don’t you probably have some particularly
cool nights in the winter. In either case your home will be cool enough you will likely
need a heater. There are four basic types of heaters common
to the aquarium industry. These glass heaters controlled with a bi-metal thermostat which
is basically a couple dissimilar metals that bend at different temperatures to control
when it turns on and off. Heaters with built in electronic thermostats
and controllers which turn the heater on and off. These electronic versions come in two
basic types. One with external devices to measure the temperature and those with the
thermometer built into the body of the heater itself. Lastly there are also heaters that
have no built in thermostat or controller and require an external controller to operate
properly. The bi-metal versions are the oldest design
and I think the biggest benefit is the complete lack of advanced technology inside. The reason
reefers don’t use them as often these days is because the contacts have a tendency to
get stuck together over time which causes the heater to get stuck on and will likely
be pretty devastating to the tank if you don’t have an external controller or catch it quickly. Even though some can be more expensive the
electronic models are much more popular be-cause most people believe they fail less frequently
and provide a more stable temperature. Because of all the reliability concerns related
to aquarium heaters reefers have started to demand heaters without controllers and use
higher quality external controllers of their own. You can use a controller designed for
aquariums, something more industrial like the Ranco or a more feature rich full aquarium
controller. At this point I think the full aquarium controller
has become the most popular option because there are a ton reasons to own one and they
have become so inexpensive it is easy to justify. For just over a hundred bucks you can pick
up something like a reef keeper lite which is a lot more reliable and feature rich than
any heaters internal thermostat. Some advanced controllers like the Neptune
Apex have some pretty easy ways to set up email and text message notifications as well
as easy to access advanced graphing. Within all these types you will find them
all made out of different materials as well. Glass, various types of plastic and titanium.
The titanium heaters are super popular because they don’t shatter like glass can. The titanium
types come with built in controllers as well as with no controller as well. Plastic options are also less prone to shattering,
One advantage to the plastic options is they can come in a variety of shapes. The Neotherm
from cobalt aquatics is a good example. This heater is ultra-thin and fits almost anywhere
in the tank which is why it’s one of my favorite heaters. To decide which one is right for you are going
to have to weigh reliability, stability and accuracy with wattage availability and price.
For reliability your best bet is going to be to read customer reviews. Be prepared that
basically all of them are going to have a healthy share of bad reviews so this is really
a game of picking the best of what’s available. Make sure to actually read them rather than
just look at stars because there is a big difference between a lot of complaints about
it being off a degree or two which is super common and complete failure. To help provide some insight into accuracy
and stability we performed a couple of demonstrations to give you an idea how some typical heaters
perform. Break We used five one hundred watt heaters starting
with a the Ehiem bi-metal glass heater, a digital glass version with the Finnex HPS,
an analog glass with the Hydor, the flat digital heater with the Neotherm and a titanium HMO
heater from Finnex. The goal here is to just give you a general
idea of what to expect and not provide definitive proof one is better than another. This will
hopefully provide some incentive to other reefers to do similar tests on their own heater
and share them in the comments area below. The most important element to me is stability
and the size of temperature swings each has. We let all of the heaters run in a five gallon
bucket with a small couple watt circulation pump and used a Neptune Apex to produce charts
so you can see exactly how they perform. The biggest variance we found was with the
Ehiem Jager true temp who had a pretty constant three degree variance as it cycled on and
off. Three degrees is probably larger than most reefers would want for their reef tanks.
I will note that this is one of the very few UL listed heaters out there so it is very
likely one of the safer options and a solid candidate if you are going to use it on a
controller which most of us will. The glass Finnex HPS had a somewhat consistent
one degree which is inside the range of what I would call acceptable. Followed by the Hydor
with a two to three tenths of a degree variance which is pretty impressive for an inexpensive
heater. The Hydor is the only other UL listed option we demoed as well. The Finnex titanium was also very stable with
just a couple tenths if of a degree variance. How-ever I think the most impressive was the
Neotherm by cobalt aquatics. This thing is just flat meaning the water didn’t change
temperature in any way detectable by the Neptune apex. I found that to almost be too good to
be true so we moved buckets and tested it on a different apex temp module and got the
same results. I think this is the only heater where I might consider using the heaters internal
thermostat as the primary and my aquarium controller as the backup. The other element we tested was accuracy.
All of the heaters were set to eighty six degrees. I used a NIST validated thermometer
certified to be accurate to four tenths of a degree which is about as good as you are
going to get without spending a fortune. Because it is NIST validated I trust it more than
the aquarium equipment. The Hydor and Ehiem came in over three degrees
high at eighty nine point two and eighty nine point three. The Finnex HPS was just over
two degrees high at eighty eight point three. The Finnex HMO titanium and Cobalt Neotherm
performed the best at just over one and a half degrees high at eighty seven point six
and eighty seven point five. Moral of the story don’t assume any heater is accurate
out of the box because it probably isn’t as close as you might think. Also don’t assume your aquarium controller
is accurate out of the box either. I found controllers off by as much as six degrees.
You absolutely need to calibrate your controller if it allows for it. Sadly if you read most thermometer details
you will find them to state an accuracy range of plus or minus two degrees which is a pretty
big range. Thermometers with tighter accuracy and certified to provide valid results are
typically prohibitively expensive, often seventy to a hundred bucks. Your best bet for calibrating is finding two
or three cheap thermometers and averaging the results. This Oxo pen style, JBJ Digi
temp, LaMotte armored, and lifeguard options are all around twenty bucks or less and suitable
options. When you place the heater in your tank you
want to make sure to place it in an area that would be very difficult to run dry to prevent
damage to the heater, sump and potential fires. For in-stance the same area as your return
pump is a bad idea. If you ever forget to top off the tank this area can easily run
dry. Also if you use an aquarium controller with
its own temperature probe make sure to place the probe in a different area than the heater
itself, ideally in the tank itself or in a chamber before the heater. This will help you keep the temp more stable
but also but also help with your alarms and notification system when your return pump
fails or runs dry. If the probe and heater were in the same area it would only heat that
single chamber but the controller would think the tank is fine. Placing it in a different
area will let the controller know the tank is cooling down so you can do something about
it. Some of you may find the need to cool your
tank. Maybe it’s hot in your home, you have a lot of equipment or lighting on the tank
or you have very little evaporation all of which can cause the tank to overheat. The
best way to keep the tank cool is to remove the offending equipment or replace it with
more efficient equipment so you just don’t have to be concerned with this. Next best way is to increase evaporation by
making sure the surface of the water is braking with a powerhead of some type and aiming a
fan at the surface. This can be done on both the tank itself and sump. With the tank I think it is nice to spend
a few extra bucks and get something low profile and quiet like the Tunze Aquawind. For the
sump an inexpensive clip on fan like the air king is the best option. If that still doesn’t do it you are going
to have to consider a chiller. I honestly try and avoid chillers at all cost because
they are expensive, take up a ton of room and require a lot of power which you might
not have available near the tank. A chiller is more or less an air conditioner so it also
adds heat to the room and can’t be cycled on and off constantly because it would be
bad for the compressor. You will inherently have a larger temperature swing each time
the chiller turns on and off which I also find undesirable. If you do install a chillier I find the JBJ
chillers to be the most reliable, among the smallest form factor and the quietest I have
ever used. They also have a super helpful calculator on their site where you enter everything
that is on your tank and selects the right size chillier for you which takes all the
guess work out of something most people find pretty confusing. Once you have the right one you can either
use your return pump, manifold or separate pump to cycle water through it and cool the
water down for the tank. I would avoid sending water from your overflow into the chillier
because I don’t want air, chunks of algae or rogue livestock getting stuck inside the
chiller. Ok, time to install our solution for the BRS
160. If they came in the size I was looking for I would personally select the Neotherms
from cobalt aquatics. My experience is they are the most reliable and stable of the heaters
I have used myself, they are also ultra-low profile and easy to place. I am willing to
pay the premium in this case. However they don’t come in the larger sizes I am looking
for currently, hopefully they will rectify that in the not too distant future. Based on stability it was a close call between
the UL listed Hydor and Finnex HMO but I decided to go with two three hundred watt HPS Finnex
heaters. I may have to use three but we will see how these work out. The Finnex HMO seems
to be the best mix of stability, price and accuracy. The titanium probe is also more
robust than glass and in some ways safer. Coupled with that the reviews are more positive
than negative so the choice wasn’t that hard. Because I would never trust my tank to any
heaters internal thermostat without some type of back up I am also going to use the Neostat
temperature controller on each heater which is the same controller that’s in the cobalt
Neotherms. I will need one for each heater. It is a bit pricey which does make it hard
to justify but I think it is the best option for something like this. I will set the Neostat to eighty degrees and
the heater’s internal controller to eighty two as a backup. Depending on how accurate
each are when I check them with my thermometer I may have to adjust the temp of each to achieve
the desired temperature for the tank and back up effect. The heaters are going to be installed in the
filtration area of the sump and due to available cord lengths we are going install the temp
probes in the return area. It is critical that the probes stay submerged at all times
so we found a convenient spot to zip tie the Neotherm’s temp probes in place. To best honest on any other tank I would always
install a full aquarium controller and use that to control my heaters. The reef keeper
lite can control the heaters and a variety of other equipment for about half of cost
of these two heater controllers which makes a complete aquarium controller in some form
a no brainer in my eyes. In this series we are going to show the individual
stand-alone controllability options for everything, then install a full controller near the end
of the series which is the reason I am using these Neotherm controllers now. A true aquarium controller will allow us to
manage temperature to the tenth of a degree, Lets us set the second heater as true back
up just slightly below the first one. This reduces the power cycles on the back up heater
and makes it more likely will work when I need it. The aquarium controller can also operate a
fan or chiller as needed as well as set off audible alarms, you could even plug in a light
or something else to let you know if the tank is outside the intended range. You can also
have it start powering down equipment like lights and unnecessary equipment to reduce
heat. Last thing I am going to do is put a reminder
in my calendar to replace these heaters in a year. In my never ending hunt of a high
quality heater the only thing I have found that I think really works is buy what’s
available and just replace them yearly before they fail me.

99 thoughts on “Week 8: Tank temperature. Finding a way to trust your heater | 52 Weeks of Reefing

  1. Good point about heaters. They all seem cheap and never last. I had one stick in the on position and literally cooked my FW fish overnight. The thing was only months old.

  2. i never understood why makers of titanium heaters don't ground the outer shell, it would double as a ground probe and would literally cost 3 cents more to build.

    somebody should tell the manufactures to do that. i know id buy one instead of a heater and an additional 25 dollar ground probe.

  3. I've been using the Cobalt Neo Therm for over a year and like you Ryan I think they are the best. I'm just getting ready to order one for my nano that I've been using a back up Jager on that has a mind of its own………lol
    Love the series so far

  4. Love your videos. I like how you go over different types of equipment and cover pros and cons. But could you guys do a video where you list your top choices for different equipment? May be lost your top choices at the high mid and low cost range. We like options, and that's what you have been giving, but when it comes to me, I feel that if I am going to invest the kind of capital that is involved in the hobby, I want the best equipment out there. You guys have years of experience, and know what works the best. I'm sure you have your goto products. I would like to know what you would choose within different budgets. Thanks guys, keep up the great work!

  5. It sounded like you suggested to set your heater temp a little higher than your target temperature (as a backup) when using a controller like an Apex and then program the controller to maintain the temp at your target temperature with it's more accurate temp sensor. While this does provide a more stable temp it can open you up to more risk than using the heater's thermostat and using the controller to monitor and disconnect the heater if the thermostat fails.

    I was initially using a ViaAqua Titanium heater set a little higher than my target temp and my Apex to maintain a lower temp precisely were I wanted. Unknown to me though the ViaAqua's thermostat began drifting out of calibration. It thought 96F was 80F. This wasn't a problem as the Apex kept the proper temp until one day a quick power flicker caused my Apex to freeze which left the outlet for the heater on and due to the failure of the heater raise the tanks temp and killed half my fish.

    If I had used my heater's thermostat for primary temp control instead of backup control and the Apex as a monitor and protector I would have known when the thermostat went out and could have replace the heater with know issues. A failure of the Apex is much more noticeable and less devastating (with the proper setup).

  6. I would pay extra for a superior heater with significantly extended life. I have lost a 125 reef tank with thousands of dollars in fish and corals because of a heater malfunctioning while I was at work. went to work checked the tank everything good. got home 10hrs later and everything was dead, cooked well done. it almost made me quit the hobby, almost.

  7. I have had heater fail but the control temp light remains on! without a temperature gauge I wouldn't know that my heater failed. yes make better heaters …that are affordable.

  8. I've been waiting for years for heater tech to catch up to the rest of the tech we have in the industry. Funny how most of us invest all this money but still use 30 year old tech in one of the most critical aspects

  9. I use two 500 wt jbj tubes and a reef keeper one set at 78 and one at 77. This takes two spots on my controller but uses less energy and I have a back up if the 78 fails. It would be great to have a dependable heater so we wouldn't have to do all that

  10. Another Great Video! Ryan I can’t say this enough but you videos are so helpful and informative. I started off watching them a few weeks back when I first decided I wanted to try a marine tank and working my way through all of them.

     Even though informative, it was hard to watch some of the early videos and I was literally shocked when I came across the newer productions. I don't want to come off mean but whatever flipped switch/acting class you attended was well worth it. BRStv and your retail site are my go to choices for honest opinions and reviews. No matter how many forums or books I read I consistently come back to your YouTube channel to compare and get a good visual of things. 

    Great Jobs Guys and Keep It Up!


  11. It's been two years since I started my first reef tank, and at the time I bought a cheap 20$ heater that has lasted this whole time. I've been looking to replace it because I'm horrified of the day it will break. The Cobalt seems like a great option, but after looking at some reviews I've found it's been known to explode! Thoughts?

  12. Guys I'm sorry the question does not relate to this week's topic but I am sure this will come at some point. It concerns the kalkwasser adding I read and heard some people mix a small amount of white vinegar to the RO water to which they mix the kalk and use the auto-top-off system to add this mix as the water evaporates (system you recomanded in  different videos). The question concerns the use of vinegar. Do you recomand this or is it not a good idea?

  13. This was great! However, in larger systems with larger volumes of water, that would be the test I'm looking for. Or is it safe to assume that the 5 gallon buckets can easily translate to the larger volumes of water? Anyway, thanks again!

  14. These videos have helped me so much! Can you let me know what NIST thermometer you were using to validate the temps? Would like to get one to calibrate my apex thermometers. Thanks

  15. I have spent my life in the calibration world. In the video you suggest taking 3 inexpensive thermometers and averaging them to get a good reading. Sorry, but all you get is an average reading. The ONLY way to get an accurate reading is by calibrating the device(s) used to make the measurement. You should also understand that thermocouples are not an accurate temperature measurement device. Most are only plus or minus 3 degrees of uncertainty.

  16. What do you think about using a thermo-scan to calibrate temperature? That's what I use, the same thing I use to take my kids temperature.

  17. My preferred method is what you posted – use an external controller with the heater thermostat set a couple of degrees higher as a backup. That way the heater thermostat doesn't cycle on and off leading to fused contacts and it's available as a backup if your primary controller fails.

    Use caution with the larger cobalt neotherms – there are a lot of reports of the case cracking and spewing goo into the tank causing livestock deaths. Only seems to be an issue with the 150 & 200W models.

  18. Ryan, you are right about not relying on the stars and should read the comment for the reasons you mentioned. but also there is another reason i found a lot; some people will rate a product that they are satisfied with but still give it one star or less if they can just because of shipping issues like maybe arriving late a day or two.

  19. I really love the series, but its so hard to watch them because you are using your car salesman high pitch exited voice. Its totally grating after even 3 minutes. Please consider chilling out and talking normally. 🙂

  20. Since you guys used the Finnex heater on this build (at least for now), have you considered offering the Finnex Heater Controller? It's the same controller that comes with the Finnex heater you're using here, and is readily available on other sites for about a third of the cost of the Cobalt controller.

  21. the heater is like a light bulb, the heating and cooling is what kills them over time.
    if you want to make it more reliable you can use an undersized heater so that its always on and a cold plate that has no need for a compressor to turn on if the temp becomes too high.. these in combination. (for proof just look at the oldest working light bulb, it is never turned off) it worked for me for 3 years so far

  22. I didn't see you covering a method to determine the wattage requirement for a heater. How do I know if I need a 100w or a 300w?

  23. I read that for my 55gal, I would need around a 200w heater.. is this accurate? I want to run a 150w neo-therm. the price is around 60-$80 and that is super cheap considering they are so accurate and dependable, and most of all, low profile. I can hang it in the back of my tank, and due to the flat black finish, it almost disappears.

  24. It would be a great thing to have a heater that you can count on for many size aquariums. I also would be willing to pay for a quality made heater that will last me years.

  25. Hi, i'm currently in the process of upgrading my tank, i've bought a neptune apex for it, and i'l have a look at the cobalt and finnex heaters you showed. but what i would link to know is what would you recommend setting as the primary Temperature control, the Apex as Primary and the Internal on the Heaters as Secondary or the other way arround with the internal heater one as primary and the Apex as secondary?



  26. Couldn't agree more that heater options could be better. I would watch those Finnex digital controllers. I had two of them fail on me in a matter of a few to several months after installation. Fortunately, I was only using them for top of water. I prefer the Eheim heaters and have not noticed the temp fluctuations you noted, but they are regulated by my controller and I have a very large water volume of ~500g so temp stays very stable.

  27. I would also like a quality heater that last. It seems I am constantly going through heaters no matter what the brand. I had an eheim last a long time but the fluctuation in temperature is one reason I will not be getting one of these again. Hope you guys can bring us one in the not so distant future.

  28. I just wanted to ask a question, I understand that the neostats have there own thermostat. So why add the cobalt thermostat as backup. If the cobalt sends power to the neostats heater that failed, then how will it turn on these heaters as backup if there internal thermostat did not turn on in the first place. I did not know if the heaters could be powered my a secondary thermostat. I just want to know how this works?

  29. I need  a heater good enough for my 120 tank with sensor and controller, any ideas?. I t will be difficult to have 2 heathers , that aren't  enough or a 3rd, it will be too much.  Cobalt , maybe in the future?.

  30. I recently suggested to one of the EcoTech support representatives that they should look into some sort of heating system that would take care of the problems you mention about in this video. I'm so frustrated with the 1000 watt JBJ heating elements! I've been actually buying backups at two at a time!

  31. Why did you guys test these heaters at close to 90* F? Using equipment outside of the expected operating parameters isn't likely to yield stable results. If most reefers keep their tanks between 78-81* F, why would a heater manufacturer put the extra R&D into making sure their heater is just as stable at 90*F?

    A better test would have been to test these heaters within normal operating temperatures, between 78*F and 82*F. Unless… you guys already did that, and they all had fairly similar performance.

  32. FYI guys: I'm curing 5 pounds of dry Fiji rock in my Fluval 5 gal nano. With no other heat source than the return pump and ambient temp (very stable) the tank went between 73.2 f.
    and 77.1 f. Just willy nilly no rhyme or reason and no way to control. The more seasoned Reefers here probably aren't surprised, but this caught my attention. I understand that 5 gals will change it's parameters much faster compared to 50 gals. Just passing on my experience. Keep those reefs alive in our homes and their homes too.

  33. hi quick question… i installed a 200 w heater on my 30 gal biocube and i did notice that even tough the heater is set at 82, the thermometer reads 76. I initially though that the issue was maybe the heater but i m getting the same number using another thermometer. 200 W heater should be more than enough to handle a 30 gal biocube, what s going on? any ideas?

  34. Yes. I'll buy 3 $20 thermometers, but not one accurate $70 thermometer. And next to the $200 RO/DI and the $300 skimmer a nice thermometer isn't that bad.

  35. my tank is currently stabilized at 82.2 degrees Fahrenheit. is that safe if i wanted to add clownfish or anemones? ps. setting up my first saltwater tanks. please help me.

  36. I have small and big size of neo cobalt in my 91g Red Sea Reefer, I set the small to 77°F and the big on to 88°F, the temp goes to 77.6°F to 78.5°F do you consider this OK. Ty

  37. Has any one thought about using a sous vide cooker? Very precise and plenty of watts. Only down side is not submersible and limited depth it needs to be in the water.

  38. just wondering if there is a reason you guys don't carry aqueon pro heaters or aquatop heaters? I recently bought a 200 watt aquatop titanum heater because it was the only heater I couldn't find pictures of it exploding haha 😂

  39. Making a DIY Canister in a Closed Loop with a Cobalt inside – The question I have is about Flow rate as it will be a member of a 5 Canister Daisy Chain running with a Eco Tech Vectra L1 return pump @ approx 950 gph flow-rate – Will that rate of water flow render the heater useless ? – If so – I guess I could run a valve gate to run water through it on it's own "Loop" at a slower Rate. ?.

  40. Just watched your video about the ReefKeeper Lite.. What happened to your enthusiastic tone of voice? It sounds much better to have enthusiasm when trying to convince people to buy your product! None the less, I'm seriously looking into one of these kits.. So sick and tired of buying new heaters for them to malfunction or quit working at the worst possible time! However, Because I'm not in the Reef aspect of the hobby (Freshwater) I will stick to the "Lite" version of this system. Thanks for the great tutorials !

  41. i run ehiem trutemp but the biggest ones i never have more then a half degree swing in the water i normally stay at 76.5 i get a swing up to 77.2 but it generally depends on room temp in the house and not much the heater i run two just incase one fails

  42. Hi for a 25g tank with some corals is it a must to have a chiller or cooling fan ia just fine..im living in asia my tank is placed about 2 feet away from my windows but always closed..

  43. I see 2 Koralia heaters in the video. Are they different heaters or they're the same product, just different presentation??

  44. At about 10:00 mark there was an amazing tank with a really small fish that almost resembled butterfly wings on the right side…anyone know what that was??? I'd love to get one!

  45. Help! My tank over heated today due to an error I made. It got up to 100 degrees F for possibly a couple hours. I got it down with bags of ice but I have already lost a few corals and 2 fish. I plan on doing a water change tomorrow. Anything else I can expect in the long run from this incident? Do I need to worry about the beneficial bacteria being killed by the heat spike? Any input will help.

  46. I had no idea that they had made any improvements to the aquarium heater world.
    I have added the Cobalt Neo-Therm to my wishlist.

  47. These guys no there stuff, i'm really impressed with the entire series of videos. I will be definitely buying my gear from them that's if they can deliver to Australia.

  48. I came across your channel while researching weirs and overflow systems because i purchased an acrylic tank for a heck of a steal, and it came reef-ready. I am not running a reef, rather freshwater… but your videos are certainly the most helpful ones I have come across. I now feel confident in setting this bad boy up. Thank you!!!

  49. A tip with heaters
    Place your heater horizontally or diagonally rather than vertically. The censer Is in the top of the heater so it will turn on and off less and will last longer

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